Suddenly, it’s gone from summer to autumn, if not winter! says John Hunston the Walking Mountain Leader.
I started the month of October in full shorts mode, desperate to cling onto that sunny vibe. Even chillier days weren’t so cold, and provided I wasn’t hanging about, short trousers seemed a very acceptable option. However, this came to a rather abrupt end with a brief trip to Iceland, more of which later, and I’ve succumbed to more wintry attire.
I’ve had an interesting couple of days out recently with groups of Muslims from London and Birmingham. Now, the Lake District isn’t known for its ethnic diversity, and I go weeks on the fells without bumping into anyone of a different skin tone.
These groups were all university students from Islamic societies, so fairly devout in their religious affiliation. The first group of 18 had travelled from London through the night to arrive at Seatoller early in the morning for an ascent of Scafell Pike.
As they disembarked from their bus, my fellow mountain leader and I noted their trainers, city anoraks, college backpacks and lack of suitable waterproofs. Some had cheap walking boots, and one or two appropriate jackets. We were glad the forecast was fairly good, as otherwise we’d be turning back after a couple of kilometres with symptoms of hypothermia.
However, what they lacked in equipment they more than made up for in enthusiasm and energy. Their feet must have been soaking almost from the start, but they sang and chanted all the way. As we headed towards Esk Hause from the top of Ruddy Gill, the lying overnight snow gave an opportunity for good-natured snowball fights. We were in mist but they were undaunted, and reached the summit to cheers and more chanting. There were some aching knees on the descent, which slowed us down, but the views improved and despite nine and a half hours out, the mood was generally excellent. They referred to each other as ‘brother’ and ‘my brothers’ in a way that was respectful and comforting.
On the way up, I’d noticed one individual, who had no backpack, food or water with him, constantly praying, for forgiveness as he explained when asked. He turned out to have a quiet humour and a twinkle in his eye. As the day progressed, there was a lot of looking at watches and studying apps. It transpired they were concerned that they wouldn’t be back in time to pray. In the end, some prayed on the side of the track, whilst others hung on to the end and prayed in the Seatoller bus shelter. It is a little complicated calculating prayer time, apparently, and there seem to be different systems available.
These are not routine sights in Borrowdale, but a lovelier bunch of guys I couldn’t expect to meet anywhere. They were inquisitive, asking questions that surprised me – for example, why is that water white? – clearly never having seen a waterfall before, and took a lot of photographs particularly of the tumbling streams. Oh, and of each other – lots of those!
The following week, I was out again with about 220 Muslims, This time we were on Helvellyn, and the group was mixed, although the men tended to walk separately from the women. Again, the equipment was rudimentary, and some of the girls were even in long dresses, but the weather was once again kind and the vast majority made the summit, which cleared of cloud as if in response to prayer. The individuals I talked to were lovely, and I had some interesting conversations about their university courses, many studying engineering and medicine. One girl explained the importance of prayer in her life. It was a time for God, but also for herself, she said. It gave her time to think and clear her head of day to day worries.
On their return to the car park, they shared Indian sweets with us and many of them prayed, again kneeling and prostrating themselves. Interestingly, the girls separated themselves from the boys to the rear, and I was loath to ask why this should be, unwilling to spoil the mood of happiness at the end of a wonderful day.
I do wonder why more ethnic minorities don’t make the most of the countryside. I guess it is a mixture of factors – the importance of family connections, lack of knowledge and experience, and yes, the all-consuming nature of their religion. However, it seems a shame that such large sections of society remain ignorant of the beauties of our national parks or gentler outdoor spaces, and I hope that some of those who climbed Scafell Pike and Helvellyn are inspired to spread the word among their friends and family. Certainly our wild places would be the richer for their presence.
I mentioned Iceland in my introductory comments, and we have just had three nights there, as a taster for possible future trips. The country is magnificent, and still developing, as the tectonic plates slowly separate and create new land. The geysers were incredible, a blue bubble of water presaging the upsurge of water; the Gulfoss was spectacular, with a rainbow ever-present in its cataracts; the hot springs wonderful to laze about in.
However, it was the quiet sense of humour the people displayed and the municipal, largely outdoor, hot and cool baths in Reykjavik where people went to meet and talk that won us over. My partner Annette even had free entrance on account of her age and would have stayed all day!
We have been out and about as usual and saw a new-born short-horned calf at Hill Top Farm, St John’s in the Vale, at the end of the Old Coach Road. As we ascended Clough Head, it was just struggling to its feet, and by the time we returned it had started to suckle but was still looking very wet. Another day I went for an early morning run up Hall’s Fell ridge with Larry to enjoy the temperature inversion over the Solway, Eden Valley and Derwentwater, returning by Blease Fell. Autumn is here, and the colours are wonderful. Even today, with drizzly damp conditions, the mist over the lake is mercurial. Now is one of the best times to visit the Lakes, as visitor numbers fall and the fells are your own.
John Hunston – the walking mountain leader
johnhunstonwalking.com
John is a member of the Keswick Mountain Rescue – you can donate to this amazing, lifesaving charity online via this link: http://keswickmrt.org.uk/donate/
